Back from Tanzania
It was definitely a trip of a lifetime!
We arrived in Tanzania and the first day we went out to Arusha
National Park where we got in a safari drive as well as a 2 hour
walk with a ranger, who took us within 50 ft of cape buffalo and
some giraffes! Also by a nice waterfall. Because we were in
the wild, he carried a rifle but it stayed firmly on his
shoulder the entire time.
The next day, we were on our way to the start of hiking up Mt
Kilimanjaro (which probably should just be called Kilimanjaro
since the Kili part in Swahili means mountain ;-) Unfortunately,
on the way there we had to stop in downtown Arusha because the 1
other lady who had joined our group had forgotten to pack her
camera and therefore needed to buy another one. That delayed us
by about an hour. Then on the way there, the van broke down,
probably from all of the really, really fine dust that was
everywhere during the dry season (a bearing seized up in the
alternator). They managed to get another van, but we had yet
another 1 hr delay. Thus, we didn't get to the Machame entrance
gate until about 1pm, and started hiking about 1 hr later, so we
were some of the last people to get started that day. We did
manage to make it to camp prior to dark, but our travelling
companion didn't (she turned out to be very, very slow the whole
time -- she almost quit that first day).
After that, things went much more smoothly ... we regularly
managed to hike the sections in about the time described or
less, with the other lady always at least 2 hrs behind us. It
was an absolutely gorgeous route, starting out through cloud
forest with vines, moss, etc hanging all over the place, then
through sub-alpine and alpine areas with stunning views. One of
the most memorable things we did was take an optional route over
to the "Lava Tower" which is a big (probably 250 ft tall)
upthrust of rock in the middle of nowhere. We got up to it and
it looks like a straight up cliff, so when our guide asked "Do
you want to climb up it?" I thought he was joking and said
something like, "Sure, where's the rope?" However, he wasn't
joking at all and took us around to a side that wasn't quite so
steep (although still pretty cliff-like) and up we went! At that
time, we were probably already at 12-13,000 ft elevation, so the
going was slow due to both lack of oxygen as well as being
really careful about our footing and handholds. It was very
foggy at the time, but just after we managed to scramble to the
top, the clouds broke up for about 5 minutes and we got great
views, waved and hollered down to the folks on the ground below,
and had a wonderful time. Once we were back down (after quite a
bit more scrambling) Christine's confidence was way up and she
was ready to tackle everything else without any problem. We had
heard some scary stories about an upcoming feature called the
Barranco Wall, but after the Lava Tower it was a piece of cake
;-)
Onward we went until, after climbing over the Barranco Wall the
following day, we camped at our final and highest camping spot,
Barafu Camp at over 15,000 ft. We got here early and tried to
get an afternoon nap, because we would have to get up at 11pm to
have some food and drink before starting for the summit at just
after midnight. We then tried to go to bed at 8pm to get in a
few more winks of sleeps, but it didn't work too well. So, up at
11 and then we started our ascent. We both had helmet lights,
but Christine's planning had been impeccable ... we were just a
couple of days short of a full moon, so I never even needed to
turn my light on. We started out climbing up a medium steep and
quite rocky area which was pretty easy, but then eventually we
got to a steeper very loose dirt/gravel/sand and was very hard
to climb since it was slippery and sometimes you foot would
slide backwards. Also, we were now over 17,000 ft, so every
effort was difficult, our footsteps were very small, barely
managing to put one foot past the other.
This was, by far, the hardest section of the trek ... because it
went on for hours, all the way from 17,000 ft to probably around
18,750 ft or so. We crested it just after as the sun was rising,
which was really quite a sight -- absolutely gorgeous from this
altitude with almost no atmosphere to interfere. And we were
getting better and better views of the glaciers (which also
meant that it was getting quite cold too, but we were never
uncomfortable since we had come fully prepared for it). The last
struggle through the loose dirt got us up onto Shira Peak, where
we got a quick rest (couldn't sit still for too long due to the
cold), drank some, and took some pictures, before the last climb
up to Uhuru Peak, the highest point in Africa. This part only
took us about 45 minutes, arriving at our destination around
7:30am, so we'd been climbing for about 7 hrs and 20 minutes. I
was really starting to feel symptoms of AMS (headache and
nausea) but Christine barely had any trouble at all. So, a few
more pictures, and we were immediately heading back down to help
relieve my AMS symptoms.
It only took us 2.5 hrs to get back down to camp, but it felt
actually harder to do (at least to me) than going up because it
really used a lot more muscles to help protect our knees while
descending, in addition to my headache and upset stomach.
Christine found a neat way to get through the loose gravel, but
I couldn't seem to duplicate it so she'd have to wait for me
periodically. Once we got back to the rocky area, my speed
improved dramatically.
Back down at Barafu Camp, I got in a 2 hr nap, and then we
started descending some more, all the way down to just over
10,000 ft ... so it was a very long day for us indeed, starting
the previous night at 11pm and finishing up at around 4pm. But
at this altitude all of my AMS symptoms had vanished and we
managed to eat well and get a good night's sleep. On the way
down, we caught up to 6 porters working with a guy on a
stretcher who had slept too high and ended up with a very bad
case of AMS. Then we saw a couple of porters bringing up a
special rescue stretcher that had a motorcyle wheel with the
shock mounted underneath of it ... so we watched them transfer
the patient from one to the other and then start maneuvering the
new one on the steep and rocky descent. It was obvious that they
had done this before, but it sure didn't look comfortable for
the patient, since it was an incredibly bumpy ride for him. We
later found out from his group that he turned out to be OK, they
got him down soon enough.
The final day was several more hours of descending a fairly
steep slope, until we got to exit gate. We got Christine an "I
did it!" t-shirt while waiting for our companion (who didn't
even try to get to the summit ... she was suffering from some
AMS even before Barafu Camp, so she slept the night and then
went down in the morning).
After that we had 7 1/2 days of safaris in 4 different parks,
where we saw lions nearly every single day, huge numbers of
giraffes and elephants, uncountable types of gazelles, impalas,
zebras, wildebeast, etc, but disappointingly only 1 leopard and
4 cheetahs (from far away). One of the male lions we saw with an
old zebra kill, which was really cool. He didn't like everyone
watching, so he eventually dragged it off which was pretty
interesting to watch.
We also found over 140 new species of birds that we'd never seen
before. Probably our favorite was the lilac roller, an
absolutely stunningly colored bird, but the 'superb' starlings
(of all things) and the little bee-eaters were quite beautiful
as well.